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About pearl nacre

 The thickness of a pearl's nacre is called "maki" (nacre thickness). Nacre is the most important factor in choosing pearls. Because nacre thickness directly affects luster and how much a pearl changes over time, Tensei Pearl takes particular care with it in cultivation.

Cross-sections of pearls of the same size: the koshimono pearl has a small nucleus and thick nacre, while the one-year pearl has a large nucleus and thin nacre

Comparing nacre

Maki means the thickness of the nacre. Nacre is formed by thousands of layers of calcium carbonate crystals about 0.4μ (microns) thick and a protein called conchiolin.

 One-year pearls (tōnenmono) can sometimes have thick nacre, but koshimono (two-year) pearls are cultivated longer, so they are more likely to have thick nacre.

How nacre changes luster

Three pearls comparing nacre and luster
Thin nacreThick nacre
Nucleus and nacre thickness compared in cross-sections of three pearls
Thin nacreThick nacre

 Comparing the surfaces and cross-sections in the photo, you can see that the thicker the nacre, the more the ball at the center of the pearl stands out. Even if the finished pearls are the same size, different nucleus sizes mean different quality. It depends on the size, but a nacre thickness of 0.4mm to 0.6mm on each side can be called standard. Among large pearls, there are rarely even pearls with nacre over 1mm thick.

Nacre thickness and changes over time

Pearls are organic, so they always change over time. Apart from changes clearly visible to the eye, their composition always changes. It is generally said that the thicker the nacre, the less a pearl changes over time, but once the nacre is above a certain thickness, it will not discolor quickly. Pearls with extremely thin nacre (0.2mm or less) carry risks such as the nucleus showing through or the surface nacre peeling off.

Two pearl necklaces with different luster and color, compared
Thick nacreAlmost nochange over timeThin nacreYellowingover time
Two necklaces side by side comparing differences in pearl color and luster
Clear nacreCloudy nacre

Nacre and luster

 People tend to think that the thicker the nacre, the stronger the luster, but note that if the nacre itself is not of good quality, no amount of thickness will make a pearl beautiful. If the layers are uneven or cloudy, light is not reflected and no interference colors appear. So a fine pearl can be described as one with thick nacre made of clear, high-quality layers.

About pearl luster

Growing pearls with thick nacre

 Compared with one-year cultivation, two-year (koshimono) cultivation takes longer and means facing many risks: the risk of time, of pearls being damaged in the sea, of oysters dying, and of changes in the natural environment. On Yura Peninsula, an environment well suited to koshimono cultivation, we overcome these risks and work hard to make beautiful pearls while caring for the health of the oysters.

Akoya oysters growing in cultivation baskets hung in the sea

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